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Rebalancing Your Portfolio: How Often and How to Do It

June 4, 2026 • By Berly Sam Varghese, Editor

Quick answer

Rebalance once a year, or whenever an asset class drifts more than 5 percentage points from target. If your 60/40 stocks/bonds portfolio has drifted to 67/33, sell stocks and buy bonds to get back to 60/40. Rebalancing is a risk-control tool, not a return booster: its reliable effect is keeping volatility near the level you signed up for, and an unrebalanced 60/40 typically drifts to roughly 80/20 over a couple of decades of stock outperformance. The exception that changes the answer: in a taxable account, every rebalancing sale is a taxable event, so do the selling inside a 401(k) or IRA wherever you can.

Why Rebalancing Works

The math:

Without rebalancing:

With rebalancing:

Note the scale. A full 8-percentage-point gap between stock and bond returns — a big year — moves the mix by under two points. That is why an annual check usually finds very little to do, and why drift is a slow-motion problem rather than an urgent one. It is also why never rebalancing eventually matters so much: two points a year, compounding in the same direction for twenty years, is how a 60/40 portfolio arrives at 80/20 without a single alarming moment along the way.

What the Research Actually Says

Be careful here, because this is where most rebalancing articles overreach.

Vanguard's long-running work on rebalancing (Best Practices for Portfolio Rebalancing) reaches a conclusion that disappoints people: there is no optimal frequency, and rebalancing is not a reliable source of extra return. In periods when stocks beat bonds for a long stretch, rebalancing costs you return, because you keep trimming the thing that keeps going up. In choppier periods it adds a little. Across long samples the return difference is close to noise.

What is not noise is the risk. A 60/40 portfolio left alone through a long equity bull market does not stay a 60/40 portfolio. It becomes a 75/25 or an 80/20 portfolio, and it does so silently — nobody sends you a letter saying your risk tolerance has been revised upward. Then the next bear market prices that drift for you.

So the honest scorecard:

Rebalanced annually Never rebalanced
Allocation after 20 years of stock outperformance Still ~60/40 Drifts toward ~80/20
Risk you are actually taking The one you chose Whatever the market left you with
Long-run return Roughly a wash Roughly a wash, with fatter drawdowns
Behaviour required Sell winners on schedule None, until the crash

Anyone quoting you a precise "rebalancing bonus" of half a percent a year is quoting a backtest of one particular period, not a law. Rebalance because you want to keep the risk you chose — and treat any return effect as a rounding error you cannot predict the sign of.

How Often to Rebalance?

The research is clear that no frequency is optimal, so the honest way to read this list is as a trade-off between trading cost and how far you are willing to let the mix wander — not as a ranking.

Annual: The standard. One check a year keeps drift inside a couple of points in most years and generates the fewest taxable trades.

Semi-annual or quarterly: Tighter control of drift, more trades. In a taxable account the extra trades cost real money for a difference in risk you would struggle to notice. Reasonable inside a 401(k), where trades are free.

Monthly: Not worth it for anyone. You are reacting to noise.

Drift-based (bands): Check on a schedule, but only trade when the allocation has actually breached a band — see the 5/25 rule below. This is what most professionals do, and it is strictly better than a calendar rule because it never generates a trade in a year when nothing moved.

Recommendation: check once a year on a fixed date, and act only if a band is breached. That combines the two — a reminder you can't forget, and a rule that stops you trading for the sake of it.

How to Rebalance

Example (June 2026):

Starting allocation (1 year ago):

Current values (June 2026):

Current allocation: 62% stocks, 38% bonds (drifted from 60/40)

Target allocation: 60% stocks, 40% bonds

Target dollar amounts:

Rebalancing trades:

Done. Back to target allocation.

Tax Implications (In Taxable Accounts)

The problem: Selling stocks might trigger capital gains tax.

Example:

$216 of tax to move $2,160 is a 10% toll on the amount moved. Do that every year for thirty years in a taxable account and the friction is real — and, because the return benefit of rebalancing is close to zero (see above), there is no reliable return to pay the toll out of. That is the argument for doing the selling somewhere the toll is zero, not for skipping the rebalance.

Three ways to cut the tax bill to nearly nothing:

Where NOT to Rebalance

In Roth IRA / 401k:

In taxable brokerage:

The Mechanical Rebalancing Approach

If you have:

Rebalance across all accounts together:

Example (Age 40, target 70/30):

When stocks surge:

This is called "cross-account rebalancing" and minimizes taxes.

The "Do Nothing" Cost

If you never rebalance:

Starting:

After 20 years of stock outperformance:

The cost of never rebalancing is not a lower return. It is that you find out what your allocation drifted to at the same moment the market tells you. If you want to see what an extra drawdown at the wrong age does to a retirement date, put both allocations through the retirement calculator and compare the years, not the percentages.

Automated Rebalancing

Target-date funds do it for you:

Alternative: put a recurring calendar reminder on the same date every year — 1 June is as good as any — and check whether a band has been breached. It takes ten minutes and most years the answer is no.

The Psychological Benefit

Rebalancing forces you to:

The value here is not a number, it is a decision you no longer have to make. A written rule — "first Monday of June, back to target" — removes the moment where you look at a 67/33 portfolio, decide stocks are on a run, and leave it. That moment is where most allocation drift actually comes from. It is not that people can't rebalance; it's that nothing forces them to.

Real Example: Rebalancing in Action

Starting (Age 40, June 2016):

June 2017 (after +15% stocks, +3% bonds):

June 2018 (after +8% stocks, +2% bonds):

June 2019 (after +25% stocks, +5% bonds):

Over 10 years:

Advanced Rebalancing Tactics

Rebalancing During Market Crashes

When markets crash, many portfolios drift below target stock allocation. This is actually a buying opportunity.

Example: a 60/40 portfolio ($60,000 stocks, $40,000 bonds) through a bad equity year

Most people do the opposite and sell into the fall. This is the single moment where a written rule earns its keep, and it is the reason to decide the band in advance rather than in the week you have to act on it.

Threshold-Based Rebalancing

Covered in full in the 5/25 section above — the short version is that a band beats a date, because a calendar rule generates trades in years when nothing has actually drifted, and those trades cost money in a taxable account without changing your risk.

Rebalancing with New Money

If you're still working and adding to portfolio:

Instead of rebalancing existing holdings, direct new contributions to underweighted assets:

This is tax-efficient and costs nothing. It also has a limit worth knowing: contributions only work as a rebalancing tool while they are large relative to the portfolio. At $12,000 a year against a $100,000 portfolio you can correct a 5-point drift in about a year. At $12,000 a year against a $1.2 million portfolio you cannot — the contribution is 1% of the balance and the drift will outrun it. Somewhere in the middle you switch from contribution-based rebalancing to trade-based rebalancing, and it is worth working out where that is for you: set your target split and see what each month's contribution can actually move with the budget allocation calculator.

Bands Beat Dates: The 5/25 Rule

A calendar date is arbitrary. A band is the version most portfolio managers actually use, and the best-known formulation is the 5/25 rule: rebalance a holding when it moves either 5 percentage points in absolute terms, or 25% of its own target weight — whichever is the smaller move.

The two triggers exist because a flat 5-point band is the wrong size at both ends of a portfolio:

Target weight 5-point absolute band 25% relative band Trigger that fires first
60% (US stocks) 55%–65% 45%–75% Absolute: 55% or 65%
30% (bonds) 25%–35% 22.5%–37.5% Absolute: 25% or 35%
10% (international small-cap) 5%–15% 7.5%–12.5% Relative: 7.5% or 12.5%
5% (REITs) 0%–10% 3.75%–6.25% Relative: 3.75% or 6.25%

Notice what happens to the 5% sleeve. A flat 5-point band lets it double or vanish entirely before anything triggers — which is not a band at all. The 25% relative test catches it while it still matters.

In practice: check once or twice a year, trade only if a band is breached. Most years you will check and do nothing, which is the point. A pure calendar rule generates trades in years when nothing has actually drifted, and those trades cost money in a taxable account without changing your risk.

What Rebalancing Does Not Fix

Rebalancing restores the proportions you chose. It does nothing about whether those proportions were right. Four problems it will not touch:

FAQ

Does rebalancing actually make me more money?

Probably not, and that is the wrong reason to do it. Vanguard's rebalancing research finds no optimal frequency and no dependable return premium — in long stretches of stock outperformance, trimming stocks back to target reduces return. What rebalancing reliably does is hold your risk near the level you chose: a 60/40 portfolio left alone through a long bull market drifts toward 80/20, and an 80/20 portfolio loses roughly a third of its value in a 40% equity fall instead of roughly a quarter.

How much drift should I tolerate before I trade?

Use bands, not a calendar. The common rule is 5/25: act when a holding moves 5 percentage points in absolute terms or 25% of its own target weight, whichever is the smaller move. For a 60% stock sleeve that means 55%–65%; for a 5% REIT sleeve it means 3.75%–6.25%, because a flat 5-point band would let a 5% holding disappear entirely without triggering anything. Check once or twice a year and expect to do nothing in most years.

Do I have to sell anything to rebalance?

Often not. If you are still contributing, direct new money to the underweight asset until the ratio comes back — no sale, no tax, no spread. This works well while contributions are large relative to the balance: $12,000 a year fixes a 5-point drift on a $100,000 portfolio in about a year, but it is only 1% of a $1.2 million portfolio and will lose the race. Past that point you rebalance with trades, and you do them inside the 401(k) or IRA where the trade is not a taxable event.

What does rebalancing cost me in a taxable brokerage account?

The tax on the realised gain. Selling $2,160 of stock that carries a $1,440 embedded gain costs $216 at the 15% long-term capital gains rate — a 10% toll on the amount you moved. Short-term gains (holdings under a year) are worse: they are taxed at your ordinary income rate, up to 37%. Offset what you can against realised losses — excess losses deduct up to $3,000 a year against ordinary income and carry forward indefinitely — and do the rest of the rebalancing inside a retirement account.

Should I rebalance during a crash?

Yes, and it is the hardest time to do it. In a bad equity year the stock sleeve falls below target, so the rule tells you to sell bonds and buy stocks — buying the thing that just fell. That is the whole discipline in one trade. The practical guardrail is to write the rule down in advance, including the band, so that the decision was made when you were calm rather than in the week you have to execute it.

Sources

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